Thousands gathered in Bethlehem’s Manger Square on Christmas Eve, the first time in two years that the square was filled with families and festive music. A giant Christmas tree, missing during the Israel-Hamas war, appeared on Wednesday, overlooking a parade of scouts playing bagpipes.
The Symbolic Return of the Tree
The tree’s return marked a visible shift from the war-scarred scene that had dominated Manger Square. For the past two years the square had displayed a nativity set amid rubble and barbed wire, a stark reminder of the situation in Gaza. Now, the bright lights and the sound of bagpipes signaled a tentative step toward normalcy.
Cardinal Pizzaballa’s Message of Light
Cardinal Pierbattista Pizzaballa, the highest Catholic authority in the Holy Land, opened this year’s celebrations during the traditional procession from Jerusalem to Bethlehem. He called for “a Christmas full of light.” Arriving in Manger Square, the Cardinal said he came bearing greetings from Gaza’s tiny Christian community, where he had held a pre-Christmas Mass on Sunday. He noted the desire to rebuild amid devastation.
> “We, all together, we decide to be the light, and the light of Bethlehem is the light of the world,” he told thousands of people, Christian and Muslim alike.
The Human Cost of War on Tourism
The war’s impact is still acute. Around 80 % of Bethlehem’s Muslim-majority residents rely on tourism-related businesses, according to local government data. The majority of those celebrating were residents, with only a handful of foreigners. Some residents report that tourism is slowly returning, signaling possible change.
Voices of the Community
Bethlehem resident and tour guide Georgette Jackaman described the day as “a day of joy, a day of hope, the beginning of the return of normal life here.” She and her husband, Michael, who also guides tours, come from Christian families that have lived in Bethlehem for generations. The couple’s two children, aged 2 ½ and 10 months, are experiencing their first real Christmas.
During the war, the Jackamans shifted to selling Palestinian handicrafts online to support those who lost their livelihoods. The unemployment rate in Bethlehem surged from 14 % to 65 % during the Gaza war, a figure Mayor Maher Nicola Canawati highlighted earlier this month.
A French visitor, Mona Riewer, said she came to better understand what people in Palestine are going through. She added, “I can sense people have been through a very hard time.” Despite warnings from friends and family, she found that being in Bethlehem helped her appreciate the holiday’s meaning.
> “Christmas is like hope in very dark situations, a very vulnerable child experiencing harshness,” Riewer said.
Ongoing Tensions and International Context
Even after the Gaza ceasefire began in October, tensions remain high across the West Bank. Israel’s military continues frequent raids, claiming it is a crackdown on militants. Attacks by Israeli settlers against Palestinians have reached their highest level since the United Nations humanitarian office began collecting data in 2006. Israel captured the West Bank in the 1967 Mideast war.
The Palestinian Authority has limited autonomy in parts of the territory, including Bethlehem. President Mahmoud Abbas is expected to attend midnight Mass for the first time in two years, the mayor said. About 4,000 people have left Bethlehem in search of work, a trend that worries Christians, who are leaving the region in droves.
Christians account for less than 2 % of the West Bank’s roughly 3 million residents. Across the Middle East, the Christian population has steadily declined as people flee conflict and attacks.
The Scout Parade and the Spirit of Resilience
Fadi Zoughbi, who once oversaw logistics for tour groups, said his children were ecstatic to see marching bands streaming through Bethlehem’s streets. The scouts represent cities and towns across the West Bank, wearing Palestinian flags and tartan on their bagpipes. For the past two years, the scouts marched silently as a protest against the war.
Irene Kirmiz, who grew up in Bethlehem and now lives in Ramallah, said the scout parade is among her favorite Christmas traditions. Her 15-year-old daughter plays the tenor drum with the Ramallah scouts.
Kirmiz described the logistical challenges: “We had to wake up at 5 a.m. to arrive in time for the parade and waited upwards of three hours at Israeli checkpoints.” The drive previously took 40 minutes without the checkpoints that have increasingly made travel difficult for Palestinians.
> “It’s very emotional seeing people trying to bounce back, trying to celebrate peace and love,” Kirmiz said.
Tourism Numbers and Religious Observances
The Israeli Ministry of Tourism estimates 130,000 tourists will visit Israel by the end of December, including 40,000 Christians. In 2019, a banner year for tourism before the pandemic, the ministry said 150,000 Christian tourists visited during Christmas week alone.
During the previous two years, heads of churches in Jerusalem urged congregations to forgo “any unnecessarily festive activities.” They encouraged priests and the faithful to focus on Christmas’s spiritual meaning and called for “fervent prayers for a just and lasting peace for our beloved Holy Land.”
Key Takeaways
- Bethlehem’s Christmas celebrations return after two years of war-related silence.
- Cardinal Pizzaballa’s message emphasizes unity and hope amid ongoing conflict.
- Tourism, a vital economic pillar, is slowly reviving but remains fragile.
The day in Manger Square symbolized a tentative return to normal life, a reminder that even in the darkest times, communities can find light and resilience. The celebrations, while modest, carried the weight of hope for a future where peace and prosperity might once again flourish in Bethlehem.
Closing
As Bethlehem lights its tree and welcomes visitors, the city stands at a crossroads. The war’s scars are still visible, yet the festive spirit and the voices of its residents suggest a cautious optimism. The return of Christmas here is more than a holiday; it is a testament to the enduring hope that keeps the city and its people moving forward.
